Having enjoyed my trip by mountain bike from Sydney to Melbourne in 2004, I decided to tackle a longer trip in 2005 and the idea of riding from south to north through the centre of Australia had a lot of appeal. I love the vastness and isolation of the Australian outback and this seemed a good opportunity to enjoy both.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Marla to Erldunda

Day: 008
Date: Wednesday, 31 August 2005
Start: Marla
Finish: Erldunda
Daily Kilometres: 253
Total Kilometres: 1385

Journal:
I was woken several times during the night by the wind blowing outside and began to doubt the wisdom of my planned early start.  When the alarm went at 3am I first walked around outside to try and judge which was the wind was blowing.  It was definitely cooler and the wind seemed to be coming from the south.  I packed up and left about 3:45am.  The wind was either absent or from behind and I was able to ride in top gear for hours.  It was a superb night for rising.  Millions of stars.  Deadly quiet.  I found a radio station (Port Pirie) playing the oldies and I sang along.  It was cold, but not unbearable.  There were two trucks in the first three hours and no other traffic.  After a couple of hours, a light to the east turned out to be a quarter moon rising which added to the magic.  There followed a great clear-sky sunrise.  I stopped for breakfast in a nice lay-by - there were now gum trees in the creek beds - although it was a bit cool.  I made excellent time and continued on to the Northern Territory border arriving, along with lots of tour buses, about 11:30am.  From there it was a quick 20km to Kulgera where I stopped for lunch - toasted egg and bacon sandwiches - and watched the world go by while sitting in the lovely sun.  There were trucks from the Alice Springs exhibition, long-distance buses, backpackers buses, families, local aborigines, etc.  I left about 1:30pm for the last 75km to Erldunda.  Shortly after leaving I met a cyclist heading south.  He'd done 7,000km from Brisbane to the Cape and across the top and down.  He seemeda similar age to me and planned to be back in Brisbane by Christmas.  I continued on with my right knee gradually becoming more painful which was a bit worrying.  A flukey headwind had also blown up which was a bit annoying.  I figure I've had my share of headwinds.  Nevertheless, I still made reasonable time and reached Erldunda at 5:15pm and got a room.  Had a nice pub dinner (three courses) in their tavern and returned to my room.  It's 199km to Alice Springs so I'll go for a reasonably early start so that I get there by mid-afternoon.  My knee is looking forward to a day off.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Rest Stop to Marla

Day: 007
Date: Tuesday. 30 August 2005
Start: Rest Stop (42km south of Cadney Park)
Finish: Marla
Daily Kilometres: 123
Total Kilometres: 1132

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and was on the road by 6am with dawn just beginning to show.  It was a beautiful sunrise although a light headwind/crosswind breeze made riding a struggle all of the time.  The counrtyside was mostly scrubby with rolling hills.  Unfortunately, the headwind always prevented me enjoying the downhills, although it wasn't as strong as yesterday.  I reached Cadney Park Roadhouse at 8:15am and enjoyed sausage, eggs and bacon plus a lime milkshake and hot chocolate for breakfast.  I refilled water bottles and left about 9:20am.  The wind was beginning to build in strength and I was despairing of it swinging around to the South-East as hoped.  I tried to maintain a good pace but was getting buffeted from the front and side.  There were lots of unusual trucks heading south along the highway following the truck exhibition in Alice Springs over the weekend.  I got plenty of waves.  As I neared Marla, my target for the day, the winds got stronger and stronger.  At Marla it was blowing a gale and a dust storm raged.  I got there soon after 2pm and checked into a roomy room.  I had a relaxing afternoon, including a short nap and some washing, and had an early dinner - a big chicken lasagne which was very tasty.  I've decided to have an early start tomorrow to see if I'm up to making Erldunda which is 254km away.  the weather conditions will need to be favourable and I need to be physically up to it.  It's hard to tell whether the two tough days I've had are because I'm still tired from the last 250+km or just because of the wind.  Tomorrow may tell.  Marla is like an island in the middle of a desert ocean.  The campground is very full and the restaurant/bar buzzing yet, all around, is scrubby plains as far as the eye can see.  It was still quite windy tonight when I had dinner.  If it's too tough tomorrow, I will stop for the night at Kulgera.  I would, however, like to get to Alice Springs on Thursday night if possible so that I can have a complete day off on Friday.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Coober Pedy to Rest Stop

Day: 006
Date: Monday, 29 August 2005
Start: Coober Pedy
Finish: Rest Stop (42km south of Cadney Park)
Daily Kilometres: 110
Total Kilometres: 1009

Journal:
I got up at 6:30am and wandered over to the service station diner for eggs and bacon before leaving town around 8am - a leisurely start.  It started out as a beautiful day but a strong northerly wind soon sprang up and cycling became a real chore.  At times the wind was so strong I could barely make forward progress and my average speed was probably little more than 10kph.  I struggled on to a rest area at 78km, reaching it around 1:30pm, completely exhausted.  The wind seemed to be getting even stronger and I decided I would stop for a couple of hours and hope it subsided.  Otherwise, I would camp somewhere this side of Cadney Park and just ride to Marla tomorrow.  Even if I pressed on to Candey today, it would be after dark before I got there.  While stopped, an older couple, who had been at the big truck show in Alice Springs, stopped for a while and offered me a lukewarm pie (and a beer) which I accepted (not the beer!).  I was also very thirsty and quickly going through my own drinks though I think I have enough to camp out if necessary.  I waited until 5:30pm and then decided to start riding again in the hope the wind would die down.  It did by 6pm and I quite enjoyed riding along as the sun set in relatively calm conditions.  Saw a big red roo cross the road in front of me.  I reached a rest stop 42km south of Cadney Park (which had been my original goal) just as it got dark and found several camping groups were already there and the choice spots gone.  I found a spot where I couldn't get run over, quickly spread out my swag and had some muesli and M&Ms for dinner and was in bed, unwashed, by 8pm.  It was a fantastic night for sleeping under the stars.  A few wispy clouds but a brilliant Milky Way and, later, a quarter moon.  It was light enough for me to pack up without a light in the dark when I got up the following morning at 5:30am.  Although I tossed and turned a fair bit, I slept most of the 9.5 hours I was in the sack.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Glendambo to Coober Pedy

Day: 005
Date: Sunday, 28 August 2005
Start: Glendambo
Finish: Coober Pedy
Daily Kilometres: 254
Total Kilometres: 899

Journal:
I got up at 2:30am and left soon after 3:00am.  Unfortunately it was mostly cloudy so I didn't get the starlit night I had hoped for, but the riding was easy and I felt I was making good time.  at one point I nearly hit a sheep which crossed the road just in front of me, but otherwise I enjoyed the experience.  When it got light enough to read my trip computer, I was devastated to read that I had only covered about 15km, but I soon worked out that it had stopped working.  Around breakfast time I started to feel quite tired but had made good distance.  As the day wore on the kilometres clicked over.  The country was generally saltbush or scrubby and later on began to be increasingly undulating.  At about 100km I stopped at a rest stop for lunch and thereafter the headwind became stronger making the last part a real grind.  I was feeling exhausted and was taking a break every 10km.  With 40km to go I had afternoon tea at a rest stop and met a motorcyclist from Coober Pedy who was out for a Sunday drive.  He worked in a restaurant in Coober Pedy and said I might go there for dinner.  As the sun set, the wind dropped and I eventually made it to Coober Pedy at 6:30pm.  I checked into a budget motel, had a quick shower, ordered take-out from the adjacent Chinese restaurant, got some cash from the ATM and picked up some supplies from the nearby service station before collecting the Chinese food and eating it in my room watching the cricket.  I was very tired and, despite feeling very bloated, went to bed soon after 9pm and was quickly asleep.  Coober Pedy is still a dump and you could see and hear drunken locals all over the place.  I lost the crown off one of my teeth while having some snakes before dinner.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Woomera to Glendambo

Day: 004
Date: Saturday, 27 August 2005
Start: Woomera
Finish: Glendambo
Daily Kilometres: 124
Total Kilometres: 645

Journal:
I got up at 5:30am and was on the road by 6:20am in a partly cloudy morning that was reasonably warm.  I stopped for muesli at the Lake Hart rest stop which had a great view over the big salt lake.  It was cold stopped at the picnic area.  It was very windy, but mostly across me, before the break.  However, as I continued on the wind swung round to be a headwind and the going was very hard and not very pleasant.  I reached Glendambo at about 1:15pm and decided that I would stop early rather than struggle on in the increasingly tough conditions and sleep rough, which had been my plan.  It means 250+km tomorrow to make Coober Pedy, if all goes well, but I can always stop short.  I bought sausages and eggs for lunch after a shower and washing clothes, and then slept most of the afternoon.  I'm very tired and my legs are stiff.  I've decided to get up early and ride in the early darkness in the hope that the wind will be less.  However, more NE/NW winds are forecast for tomorrow with temperatures in the high 20s.  I hope there are no drunks on the highway in the small hours.  I'm a little apprehensive.  My front light broke from its bracket today as I crossed a cattle grid, but I've worked out a way to improvise. The countryside today has mostly been saltbush or scrub without the hills of yesterday.  Still OK, apart from the wind.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Port Augusta to Woomera

Day: 003
Date: Friday, 26 August 2005
Start: Port Augusta
Finish: Woomera
Daily Kilometres: 182
Total Kilometres: 521

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and left around 6:25am.  It was dark, but a fantastic red sunrise over the southern Flinders Ranges followed shortly.  There was very little traffic and the countryside became arid very quickly.  It wasn't as cold as previous mornings and warmed up rapidly.  Although remaining arid, the countryside did vary with saltbush giving way to scrubby trees and back again.  The soil became redder and redder.  Although mostly flat, there were some long gradual undulations which became longer and tougher as the day wore on.  Also, the wind got up around lunchtime and varied from cross to headwind.  I stopped around 9am for a muesli breakfast and then for snacks around noon and 2:30pm.  At the second stop, there were some spectacular views across some salt lakes.  Eventually, very tired, I reached Pimba just before 4pm and decided to ride the extra 6km to Woomera.  Pimba claimed to have a motel, but it wasn't obvious.  Woomera was a very pleasant-looking "company town" with plenty of trees in the midst of the desert.  I checked in to the motel, did some washing and shopping and relaxed.  It had been a very warm and tiring day.  Hopefully, I'll start to feel stronger from now on.  During the day, a car and caravan had slowed to ask me whether I needed anything.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Snowtown to Port Augusta

Day: 002
Date: Thursday, 25 August 2005
Start: Snowtown
Finish: Port Augusta
Daily Kilometres: 180
Total Kilometres: 339

Journal:
I got up at 5:30am and was on the road by 6:15am.  It was very cold and dawn was just breaking.  I made good time during the beautiful sunrise although the wind became a headwind.  After some indecision, I turned into Crystal Brook (it added a few kilometres) to get breakfast about 8:30am after 50km.  It was a pretty little old town and I got some great fresh donuts from the bakery and sat and watched the town start another day.  About 45 minutes after leaving Crystal Brook, I got a puncture and then, while trying to get the tyre back on the rim, managed to break both tyre levers!  Eventually, I managed to get the tyre on using a spanner, but decided I needed to divert into Port Pirie (added about 10km) to the bike shop to get more tubes and tyre levers, which I did.  I then had an early lunch at the Subway before heading for Port Augusta which was 88km away.  The headwind was constant, but I made reasonable time.  I rode to Mambray Creek Roadhouse, with the Flinders Ranges to my right and the gulf to my left.  Unfortunately, the Roadhouse was closed and I missed my planned ice-cream.  I had a snack and then set out on the last 46km to Port Augusta.  Alas, about 30 minutes later, I had another puncture (the tape covering the spoke holes seems inadequate).  When I tried to use the new tubes, I found the valves wouldn't fit through the rim - what a waste of money and very annoying!  I decided I needed to get to the Port Augusta bike shop and gave them a call to see when they closed....5:30pm, it was going to be tight.  Fortunately, the wind and road was kind and I averaged 25kph, reaching the bike shop at 5:15pm.  I then found that the shop was closing for good tomorrow!  He gave ma a couple of 26X2.125 tubes which he reckons will fit....let's hope!  I then stopped at the supermarket and stocked up with a few things before riding to a motel and checking in at 6pm.  It had been a long day - about 180km.  Had pizza in my room for dinner, watched the cricket on TV and went to bed at 9:30pm.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Adelaide to Snowtown

Day: 001
Date: Wednesday, 24 August 2005
Start: Adelaide
Finish: Snowtown
Daily Kilometres: 159
Total Kilometres: 159

Journal:
I got up at 5:30am and set off in the dark at 6:10am with best wishes from Jenny and Heather (my sister and her partner with whom I had been staying in the Adelaide suburbs).  It was also cold and I wore most of my gear.  I first rode into the Adelaide General Post Office (GPO), which wasn't exactly the direction I wanted to go, because I thought I should ride from GPO to GPO.  It probably added about 6km.  I then made good progress north out of town with a slight following tailwind helping me average 23kph.  There was a lot of morning traffic including plenty of trucks, but it wasn't too bad.  After about 38km, I noticed the bike was wobbling a bit and feared a major problem.  I got off, but couldn't see anything wrong so continued on.  However, it was getting worse and I soon realised I had a flat rear tyre!  I made one abortive attempt to patch the very small hole which seemed to have been caused by the spoke hole on the inside of the rim.  With some difficulty, and glad I had brought the pliers, I moved the protective tape.  Unfortunately, after I had put the wheel back on, I found the tyre was still slowly deflating.  I took it off again and this time replaced the tube.  This seemed to fix it, but it had cost me about 75 minutes of stuffing around.  I set off again, a little nervous that there might still be a problem and rode for a couple of hours to get to Two Wells where I had a couple of very fresh donuts for a little bakery and an orange juice in the sun for breakfast.  Prior  to breakfast, I had to keep getting off the road because a house was being transported up the highway.  It was two lanes wide and had a police escort.  I had to get off three times and they were all waving to me by the end.  As I was leaving in the morning, Jenny had told me that you're not supposed to wear underpants with bike shorts!  How ignorant am I?  And now my underpants inside my bike shorts were starting to chafe a bit.  I ploughed on to Port Wakefield at 105km for lunch and found some public toilets where I removed the underpants.  I had a quick pie and pastie for lunch at 12:30pm, watching the traffic go past and sitting in the sun - very pleasant.  I set off again at 1pm and found the going much harder.  The wind had swung around and was now mostly against me and there were more undulations, although the scenery was rural, green and pretty.  There were some reasonable hills.  I got stopped by a couple of Asians seeking directions, but couldn't help.  I stopped for a snack at Lochiel and thought about where I would aim for the night.  It looked like Crystal Brook, although I still had 60km to go and it was already 3pm.  I continued on, but the going was hard and I was getting tired.  I reached Snowtown at 3:50pm and, after a bit of map checking, decided I was better to stop there.  The campground was a dead loss - nothing there - so I tried the hotel where I got a room for $25.  It was a bit run down, but OK.  After a shower I walked around the town on a pleasant evening.  It was old, but obviously losing population.  Many closed stores.  This was where the grisly Snowtown murders occurred, but I saw no reference.  I got some snacks, fixed the tube in my room then had a pub dinner - bangers and mash made with kangaroo and feral goat meat by local hunters.  bed at 9:30pm.