Having enjoyed my trip by mountain bike from Sydney to Melbourne in 2004, I decided to tackle a longer trip in 2005 and the idea of riding from south to north through the centre of Australia had a lot of appeal. I love the vastness and isolation of the Australian outback and this seemed a good opportunity to enjoy both.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Pine Creek to Darwin

Day: 018
Date: Saturday, 10 September 2005
Start: Pine Creek
Finish: Darwin
Daily Kilometres: 233
Total Kilometres: 3058

Journal:
I got up at 4am and left at 4:40am.  There was no more traffic on the road early than usual.  I had thought that being closer to Darwin it would be busier.  There were still plenty of hills but that helped make the scenery more interesting and the humidity made it feel a bit like Georgia in the US where I had spent time.  The countryside was mostly timbered with rocky outcrops and escarpments and more exotic plants and, of course, ant hills.  I stopped at Hayes Creek and had a nice cooked breakfast sitting on the verandah of the old pub.  I then continued on making reasonable time although the winds were from the NW.  At one point I saw a dingo feeding on roadkill.  It then wandered into the bush and watched me pass by.  I reached Adelaide River late morning and decided to have an early lunch of a pie and pastie sitting in the shade next to the roadhouse.  There's definitely a tropical feel to the place and creeks were flowing and surrounded by lush vegetation.  About 80km south of Darwin I met a german who was mid-way through his first day of a bike trip from Darwin to Uluru.  He was finding the going tough but looked fit.  He was worried about snakes.  After an ice-cream at Acacia Stores in mid-afternoon I set out for the last 65km to Darwin.  My spirits were good, but deteriorated on the divided highway into Darwin where the headwinds were strong and the weather warm.  I struggled on and around 5pm reached a motel near the airport where I checked in (it was a bit of a dive).  I then left my bags there and continued riding into the centre of town where, after a bit of looking around, I found the main Post Office about 6pm and took a certifying photograph.  The moment was a bit anti-climactic because it had been a tough late afternoon, but satisfying nevertheless.  I then rode the 8km back out to the motel, stopping at the Shell roadhouse on the way to pick up some dinner.  All they had were sandwiches so my celebratory dinner was a bit underwhelming.  I ate dinner and watched the cricket and then went to bed about 9:30pm.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Mataranka to Pine Creek

Day: 017
Date: Friday, 9 September 2005
Start: Mataranka
Finish: Pine Creek
Daily Kilometres: 196
Total Kilometres: 2825

Journal:
I got up at 4am after a poor night's sleep and set out at 4:40am.  It was warm and there was humidity that I noticed for the first time on the trip.  The stars weren't quite so bright.  Another lovely sunrise but, disappointingly, there was a headwind.  I found out later that the winds were north-westerlies, exactly what I didn't want.  I had been hoping all week for tailwinds on this section where the road direction was mostly WNW.  It was sweaty tough work with a few hills, but more interesting scenery.  There were rocky outcrops and the burnt undergrowththat is commong at the Top End.  I actually saw some feral donkeys in the early light.  After 105km I reached Katherine feeling quite tired.  Maybe the hard riding is catching up with me.  Katherine was much the same as when the family visited two years ago.  Quite busy, provincial town feel.  I bought a couple of toasted sandwiches and OJ and a lime milkshake at a roadhouse, much to the amusement of the cashier.  I hit the road again at 10:30am after walking through town.  I had decided that, in the conditions, Pine Creek would be my target for the day, even though it meant a lot of kilometres tomorrow.  The road became quite hilly and busy but also interesting.  It looked like Kakadu country with lots more rocky outcrops.  Also lots more habitation.  Eventually I reached Pine Creek which is a pretty little town and checked into the hotel/motel which seemed very nice.  I had time for a nap before a very nice pasta dinner at the pub, followed by cheesecake.  Lots of phone calls to Barb as I sorted out an earlier flight back to Sydney.  back in the motel room I watched the Geelong vs Swans finals game and some cricket.  Despite a later than usual night, I decided to leave at the usual time given the 225km tomorrow.  I will also dump my surplus food to reduce weight.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Dunmarra to Mataranka

Day: 016
Date: Thursday, 8 September 2005
Start: Dunmarra
Finish: Mataranka
Daily Kilometres: 212
Total Kilometres: 2629

Journal:
Got up at 4am after a good night's sleep (went to be at 7:30pm!) and on the road at 4:45am.  Another beautiful starlit night followed by a great dawn.  Very pleasant riding.  I reached Daly Waters Roadhouse at 7am and ordered a cooked breakfast which I ate on the verandah.....also very pleasant.  I then continued on at a good pace in rapidly warming conditions.  Mostly lightly forested grazing country with dry grass.  Definitely a more tropical feel.  I made good time to Larrimah where I got a home-made pie and sausage roll and milkshake for lunch.  A very sleepy town on a very hot day.  I then set off for the final 75km in very hot conditions but managed OK with a break at a rest stop mid-way.  I reached Mataranka at 4:15pm and checked into the Mataranka Hotel/Motel.  The hotel looked a bit of a dive, but the room was OK.  I've decided not to try and fix the bike at Katherine and to try and get to Darwin on Saturday night.  I bought a burger and chips from a nearby roadhouse for dinner after deciding against the pub.  I started watching the cricket but, in the end, went to bed about 8:30am.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Renner Springs to Dunmarra

Day: 015
Date: Wednesday, 7 September 2005
Start: Renner Springs
Finish: Dunmarra
Daily Kilometres: 192
Total Kilometres: 2417

Journal:
Got up at 4am after a restless night and was on the road by 4:45am.  Another starlit night and I saw a meteor soon after starting.  Made reasonable progress although there was already an opposing wind.  There weren't as many hills although I felt quite high, presumably on the Barkley Tablelands, and I could see a long way to the east and west.  The country gradually became more forested with lots of grassy areas and looked to be reasonable cattle country.  I think this is the land of the big station.  I reached Elliott at 9:15 am and found a roadhouse where I ordered a cooked breakfast and milkshake.  The town was very hot and dry with a large aboriginal population.  It looked well-kept, but a long way from anywhere, and I wouldn't want to live there.  After an hour I sett off northwards in the baking sun and gusty north wind.  I resolved to drink every 10km and break the 100km into four sections with a break between each.  For my first rest break I stopped at a rest area and soaked my top in water to cool down.  Before breakfast, as I mounted the bike after letting a road train go past, something had gone wrong with the gears.  It looks like I have disengaged/broken the smallest cog on the rear wheel so that the top gear is no longer available.  Otherwise it seems OK so I have to decide whether to try and get it fixed in Katherine, or just keep going.  It wasn't much of a problem without the top gear today, so maybe I'll be OK.  Although it was a long hot hard afternoon, it wasn't as bad as I had anticipated.  The countryside is becoming greener and there are more signs of civilization although towns are still a long way apart.  I was very happy to reach Dunmarra at 4pm and checked in, washed out clothes, and had a shower.  I can probably get to Darwin on Saturday if I have three 200+km days from here.  It's going to stay hot but if the winds are favourable and I don't waste too much time in Katherine, I should be able to make it.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Tennant Creek to Renner Springs

Day: 014
Date: Tuesday, 6 September 2005
Start: Tennant Creek
Finish: Renner Springs
Daily Kilometres: 161
Total Kilometres: 2225

Journal:
I got up at 4am and was on the road by 4:45am.  It was a warm and breezy morning and I struggled to build momentum.  Still suffering from indigestion.  Nevertheless, I made reasonable progress and passed through Three Ways while it was still dark.  There followed another beautiful sunrise.  The country became more arid pastoral in nature and udulating as the road climbed out of one dry riverbed after another.  I stopped at a rest stop after 90km for breakfast and, just as I packed up, another cyclist, Harry, came in from the south.  He said there were three other cyclists on the same stretch of road.  He was a bit eccentric, lathered in sun-cream and wearing a hood, long trousers and sleeves.  He said he was an options trader these days and was riding from Noosa to Perth.  We rode near each other for a couple of hours before taking a break and then, after that, he let me go ahead.  It was turning into another very hot day with winds that were either against me or across.  After another few kilometres I caught Charlie, who was riding a recumbent tricycle.  He was English and travelling at a comfortable pace.  Apparently he and Harry had travelled together at least part of the time.  I continued on making reasonable progress through heat-blasted country with many long straight stretches and a few good climbs.I reached Renner Springs at 1:45pm and met the two Japanese students who were also biking north.  I chatted to them a little bit, had a pie and sausage roll for lunch sitting on the verandah of the Roadhouse, and checked into the motel.  After lunch and a shower and washing out my gear, I had a nap for a little while before going over to the Roadhouse for dinner.  There I sat with Harry and the two Japanese guys for an hour or two while we had dinner.  I left them at 7pm and returned to my room.  I wanted to get another early start and make Dunmarra which was 192km away which means a long day, especially if the winds are bad.  It's supposed to be northerlies and 36°C.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Wycliffe Well to Tennant Creek

Day: 013
Date: Monday, 5 September 2005
Start: Wycliffe Well
Finish: Tennant Creek
Daily Kilometres: 132
Total Kilometres: 2064

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am after a reasonable night's sleep and set out at 6:10am as the sun rose.It was cool but promised to warm rapidly.  Again there was a headwind so progress was just steady.  Around 8am I reached the Devil's Marbles where the family had camped on our round Australia trip.  It was pretty in the early morning light.  As it got hotter and the headwind rose I became less enthusiastic about two big mileage days tomorrow and Wednesday.  North winds were forecast to be strong tomorrow and it was going to be hot all week.  I stopped for breakfast at a rest stop after 45km and then settled into an enervating slog in the wind and heat on long straight stretches into the shimmering distance.  Although it was tough, this was typical weather for this area and I enjoyed seeing at its best.  I decided to revert to my original schedule and just aim for Tennant Creek today.  I made it shortly after 2pm and checked into a motel near the centre of town.  It was baking hot and the town had a run-down feel.  I wouldn't want to be posted to the Westpac Bank here (my father was once a bank manager)!  I bought some supplies at the supermarket and later went around to the take-out and ordered a pizza for dinner which I ate back in my room.  I over-ate and over-drank, though need the fluids, and went to bed at 8pm with indigestion.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Ti Tree to Wycliffe Well

Day: 012
Date: Sunday, 4 September 2005
Start: Ti Tree
Finish: Wycliffe Well
Daily Kilometres: 181
Total Kilometres: 1932

Journal:
I got up at 5am after a good night's sleep and was on the road by 5:40am.  There was just a hint of "down" but a fantastic starry sky.  I was aiming for Barrow Creek Roadhouseat 89km, but immediately encountered a moderate headwind that slowed me down.  It was also pretty warm already.  The country was quite interesting with occasional rocky outcrops, low ranges and escarpments.  The imposing Central Mount Stuart was also visible off to the left.  despite the conditions, I made reasonable progress and got to Barrow Creek Roadhouse around 10am.  It was an "original" with a bar filled with memorabilia, flower-decked shady verandah and a donkey standing in the service station forecourt.  It stood in the same place for the whole 45 minutes I was there.  I ordered some toasted sandwiches and a bottle of drink and sat on the verandah enjoying the peaceful scene.  A couple of aboriginal women were slowly doing some chores and chatting.  Out in the sun it was hot.  I set out in the heat for a rest stop 40km down the road.  The wind became more flukey which allowed a better pace and a more pleasant ride.  There continued to be some hills but also some very long flat straight stretches where the road disappeared into a shimmering distance.  I reached the rest stop at about 12:45pm and shared the only table in the shade with an elderly couple from sydney.  They offered me tea and water and we chatted while they ate their sandwiches and I had a bowl of muesli.  The guy kidded me about their car's A/C as they left.  It was very still and hot.  Typical outback Australia with some cattle sheltering under some of the scrubby trees and everything very dry.  I set out for the last 52km to Wycliffe Well and after about 45 minutes met a cyclist coming the other way.  he was on his way from Darwin to Melbourne and had done some long rides in the past - Melbourne>Cape York and Round Australia.  we chatted for about 20 minutes before continuing on.  I reached Wycliffe Well around 4pm.  It was a very well-kept campground/motel and I got a cabin and watched the end of the footy before showering and washing out my clothes.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Alice Springs to Ti Tree

Day: 011
Date: Saturday, 3 September 2005
Start: Alice Springs
Finish: Ti Tree
Daily Kilometres: 194
Total Kilometres: 1751

Journal:
Got up at 4am after a restless night (too much caffeine?).  I left about 4:45am with what seemed to be a very heavy load.  I guess I had seven litres of fluids plus more food than I really need.  Maybe I'll ditch some later.  In the dark it was hard to tell, but the road seemed to climb out of Alice Springs and the going was slow and hard.  There was also a bit of a headwind.....again!  Eventually, as it got lighter, the road seemed to flatten out and the going was better.  I aimed for a rest stop, which was 95km from Alice Springs, for breakfast and got there around 9am, which wasn't bad given the weight on the bike, the climb out of Alice Springs, and the increasing wind.  It was a very nice morning, but rapidly getting warmer.  There was more vegetation, mostly a cross between scrub and trees and there were frequent cattle stations and the occasional road to an aboriginal settlement.  The road had some undulating sections passing through low ranges but was mostly long straight sections with low crests.  Despite the increasing wind I made reasonable time and arrived at the Aileron Roadhouse just before 12pm.  I had lost radio reception so knew I wouldn't be able to listen to the Geelong vs Melbourne football game which I thought started soon after 12:30pm.  I had pretty much decided to have lunch at the Roadhouse, take a break from the wind, and watchthe game on TV while having a few Cokes.  However, it turned out that the game started later than anticipated so I decided to ride the last 60km to Ti-Tree where I planned to spend the night despite the very warm sunny conditions and the headwind.  Again, I made reasonable time (got a text update from Aaron on the footy score en route) despite a few breaks and reached the motel at around 4:15pm and caugh the last 10 minutes of the game which Geelong won comfortably.  I washed out my very sweaty gear, had a shower, and watched the first part of the Wallabies vs All Blacks rugby game before heading to the Roadhouse for an early dinner where I watched the last half.  After dinner, I watched the first half of the St Kilda vs Adelaide match before going to bed at 8:30pm.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Alice Springs

Day: 010
Date: Friday, 2 September 2005
Start: Alice Springs (day off)
Finish: Alice Springs
Daily Kilometres: 0
Total Kilometres: 1557

Journal:
I slept in until 8:30am and then, after a bit of house-keeping, spent about 90 minutes on the internet in the motel office catching up on some email and sending a broadcast email to people interested in the trip.  I then walked into town on a very warm and sunny day (with a north wind blowing......again!).  After wandering around a bit I got some lunch in a food court and then did my food shopping at Woolworths.  Then, with a backpack full of groceries, etc., I went to the cinema and saw "Red Eye".  After that I had a milkshake and a read before slowly wandering back to the motel, passing preparations for the Alice Springs Festival Parade, picked up some KFC and had an early dinner.  Went to bed around 8pm.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Erldunda to Alica Springs

Day: 009
Date: Thursday, 1 September 2005
Start: Erldunda
Finish: Alica Springs
Daily Kilometres: 199
Total Kilometres: 1557

Journal:
I got up at 4am feeling quite tired and toyed with the idea of sleeping for another hour but decided I needed to get going.  As I set off I realised I already had a headwind plus it was quite cold.  I wasn't as enthusiastic as yesterday morning, probably because of fatigue and the headwind, although it was still a stunning night sky and beautiful dawn.  It was turning into "Red Centre" country with rocky outcrops and distant ranges plus sandy dry creek beds and gnarled white gums.  Very pretty.  I spotted quite a few camels at dawn and despite the headwind made reasonable time.  I didn't want to stop until the sun was well up because it was too cold.  I eventually stopped around 8am for some muesli in a pretty rest stop by a dry river bed.  There was a guy there and a big black, but docile, dog.  I chatted to the guy and he told me it wasn't his dog.  The dog was friendly and the guy, who was on his way to a new job at Kakadu, was reluctant to leave it.  Nobody seemed to own it.  He said he would call in at Stuarts Well and tell him about it.  Later that morning I heard a story on the ABC about the dog which had apparently been left there six weeks ago and couldn't be enticed to leave.  I did notice it pricked its ears up every time a car came along.  Apparently a nearby station owner is feeding it and hoping it will eventually go home with them.  [There was a story about the dog in the Alice Springs newspaper and a copy of it can be seen here.]  After breakfast I laboured on to Stuarts Well Roadhouse reaching there at 10:30am and, deciding to have an early lunch, got a pie and pastie, and sat on a bench in the sun watching the world go by.  A couple from Newcastle began chatting to me and, it turned out, had friends at McMasters Beach (near home).  With 90km to go, I set off on what had become a very warm day with plenty of long gradual uphills and no ability to enjoy the downhills because of the wind.  It was a struggle and I was feeling very tired but ploughed on.  With about 40km I got a text from Barb telling me about her cracked rib and pleurisy.  I tried to call but couldn't get through.  I met a cyclist going the other way who was on his first day.  i reached the motel at 5pm, very tired, and had a quick shower, did some washing and bought some supplies.  Pizza delivered for dinner.  Looking forward to a day off.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Marla to Erldunda

Day: 008
Date: Wednesday, 31 August 2005
Start: Marla
Finish: Erldunda
Daily Kilometres: 253
Total Kilometres: 1385

Journal:
I was woken several times during the night by the wind blowing outside and began to doubt the wisdom of my planned early start.  When the alarm went at 3am I first walked around outside to try and judge which was the wind was blowing.  It was definitely cooler and the wind seemed to be coming from the south.  I packed up and left about 3:45am.  The wind was either absent or from behind and I was able to ride in top gear for hours.  It was a superb night for rising.  Millions of stars.  Deadly quiet.  I found a radio station (Port Pirie) playing the oldies and I sang along.  It was cold, but not unbearable.  There were two trucks in the first three hours and no other traffic.  After a couple of hours, a light to the east turned out to be a quarter moon rising which added to the magic.  There followed a great clear-sky sunrise.  I stopped for breakfast in a nice lay-by - there were now gum trees in the creek beds - although it was a bit cool.  I made excellent time and continued on to the Northern Territory border arriving, along with lots of tour buses, about 11:30am.  From there it was a quick 20km to Kulgera where I stopped for lunch - toasted egg and bacon sandwiches - and watched the world go by while sitting in the lovely sun.  There were trucks from the Alice Springs exhibition, long-distance buses, backpackers buses, families, local aborigines, etc.  I left about 1:30pm for the last 75km to Erldunda.  Shortly after leaving I met a cyclist heading south.  He'd done 7,000km from Brisbane to the Cape and across the top and down.  He seemeda similar age to me and planned to be back in Brisbane by Christmas.  I continued on with my right knee gradually becoming more painful which was a bit worrying.  A flukey headwind had also blown up which was a bit annoying.  I figure I've had my share of headwinds.  Nevertheless, I still made reasonable time and reached Erldunda at 5:15pm and got a room.  Had a nice pub dinner (three courses) in their tavern and returned to my room.  It's 199km to Alice Springs so I'll go for a reasonably early start so that I get there by mid-afternoon.  My knee is looking forward to a day off.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Rest Stop to Marla

Day: 007
Date: Tuesday. 30 August 2005
Start: Rest Stop (42km south of Cadney Park)
Finish: Marla
Daily Kilometres: 123
Total Kilometres: 1132

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and was on the road by 6am with dawn just beginning to show.  It was a beautiful sunrise although a light headwind/crosswind breeze made riding a struggle all of the time.  The counrtyside was mostly scrubby with rolling hills.  Unfortunately, the headwind always prevented me enjoying the downhills, although it wasn't as strong as yesterday.  I reached Cadney Park Roadhouse at 8:15am and enjoyed sausage, eggs and bacon plus a lime milkshake and hot chocolate for breakfast.  I refilled water bottles and left about 9:20am.  The wind was beginning to build in strength and I was despairing of it swinging around to the South-East as hoped.  I tried to maintain a good pace but was getting buffeted from the front and side.  There were lots of unusual trucks heading south along the highway following the truck exhibition in Alice Springs over the weekend.  I got plenty of waves.  As I neared Marla, my target for the day, the winds got stronger and stronger.  At Marla it was blowing a gale and a dust storm raged.  I got there soon after 2pm and checked into a roomy room.  I had a relaxing afternoon, including a short nap and some washing, and had an early dinner - a big chicken lasagne which was very tasty.  I've decided to have an early start tomorrow to see if I'm up to making Erldunda which is 254km away.  the weather conditions will need to be favourable and I need to be physically up to it.  It's hard to tell whether the two tough days I've had are because I'm still tired from the last 250+km or just because of the wind.  Tomorrow may tell.  Marla is like an island in the middle of a desert ocean.  The campground is very full and the restaurant/bar buzzing yet, all around, is scrubby plains as far as the eye can see.  It was still quite windy tonight when I had dinner.  If it's too tough tomorrow, I will stop for the night at Kulgera.  I would, however, like to get to Alice Springs on Thursday night if possible so that I can have a complete day off on Friday.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Coober Pedy to Rest Stop

Day: 006
Date: Monday, 29 August 2005
Start: Coober Pedy
Finish: Rest Stop (42km south of Cadney Park)
Daily Kilometres: 110
Total Kilometres: 1009

Journal:
I got up at 6:30am and wandered over to the service station diner for eggs and bacon before leaving town around 8am - a leisurely start.  It started out as a beautiful day but a strong northerly wind soon sprang up and cycling became a real chore.  At times the wind was so strong I could barely make forward progress and my average speed was probably little more than 10kph.  I struggled on to a rest area at 78km, reaching it around 1:30pm, completely exhausted.  The wind seemed to be getting even stronger and I decided I would stop for a couple of hours and hope it subsided.  Otherwise, I would camp somewhere this side of Cadney Park and just ride to Marla tomorrow.  Even if I pressed on to Candey today, it would be after dark before I got there.  While stopped, an older couple, who had been at the big truck show in Alice Springs, stopped for a while and offered me a lukewarm pie (and a beer) which I accepted (not the beer!).  I was also very thirsty and quickly going through my own drinks though I think I have enough to camp out if necessary.  I waited until 5:30pm and then decided to start riding again in the hope the wind would die down.  It did by 6pm and I quite enjoyed riding along as the sun set in relatively calm conditions.  Saw a big red roo cross the road in front of me.  I reached a rest stop 42km south of Cadney Park (which had been my original goal) just as it got dark and found several camping groups were already there and the choice spots gone.  I found a spot where I couldn't get run over, quickly spread out my swag and had some muesli and M&Ms for dinner and was in bed, unwashed, by 8pm.  It was a fantastic night for sleeping under the stars.  A few wispy clouds but a brilliant Milky Way and, later, a quarter moon.  It was light enough for me to pack up without a light in the dark when I got up the following morning at 5:30am.  Although I tossed and turned a fair bit, I slept most of the 9.5 hours I was in the sack.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Glendambo to Coober Pedy

Day: 005
Date: Sunday, 28 August 2005
Start: Glendambo
Finish: Coober Pedy
Daily Kilometres: 254
Total Kilometres: 899

Journal:
I got up at 2:30am and left soon after 3:00am.  Unfortunately it was mostly cloudy so I didn't get the starlit night I had hoped for, but the riding was easy and I felt I was making good time.  at one point I nearly hit a sheep which crossed the road just in front of me, but otherwise I enjoyed the experience.  When it got light enough to read my trip computer, I was devastated to read that I had only covered about 15km, but I soon worked out that it had stopped working.  Around breakfast time I started to feel quite tired but had made good distance.  As the day wore on the kilometres clicked over.  The country was generally saltbush or scrubby and later on began to be increasingly undulating.  At about 100km I stopped at a rest stop for lunch and thereafter the headwind became stronger making the last part a real grind.  I was feeling exhausted and was taking a break every 10km.  With 40km to go I had afternoon tea at a rest stop and met a motorcyclist from Coober Pedy who was out for a Sunday drive.  He worked in a restaurant in Coober Pedy and said I might go there for dinner.  As the sun set, the wind dropped and I eventually made it to Coober Pedy at 6:30pm.  I checked into a budget motel, had a quick shower, ordered take-out from the adjacent Chinese restaurant, got some cash from the ATM and picked up some supplies from the nearby service station before collecting the Chinese food and eating it in my room watching the cricket.  I was very tired and, despite feeling very bloated, went to bed soon after 9pm and was quickly asleep.  Coober Pedy is still a dump and you could see and hear drunken locals all over the place.  I lost the crown off one of my teeth while having some snakes before dinner.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Woomera to Glendambo

Day: 004
Date: Saturday, 27 August 2005
Start: Woomera
Finish: Glendambo
Daily Kilometres: 124
Total Kilometres: 645

Journal:
I got up at 5:30am and was on the road by 6:20am in a partly cloudy morning that was reasonably warm.  I stopped for muesli at the Lake Hart rest stop which had a great view over the big salt lake.  It was cold stopped at the picnic area.  It was very windy, but mostly across me, before the break.  However, as I continued on the wind swung round to be a headwind and the going was very hard and not very pleasant.  I reached Glendambo at about 1:15pm and decided that I would stop early rather than struggle on in the increasingly tough conditions and sleep rough, which had been my plan.  It means 250+km tomorrow to make Coober Pedy, if all goes well, but I can always stop short.  I bought sausages and eggs for lunch after a shower and washing clothes, and then slept most of the afternoon.  I'm very tired and my legs are stiff.  I've decided to get up early and ride in the early darkness in the hope that the wind will be less.  However, more NE/NW winds are forecast for tomorrow with temperatures in the high 20s.  I hope there are no drunks on the highway in the small hours.  I'm a little apprehensive.  My front light broke from its bracket today as I crossed a cattle grid, but I've worked out a way to improvise. The countryside today has mostly been saltbush or scrub without the hills of yesterday.  Still OK, apart from the wind.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Port Augusta to Woomera

Day: 003
Date: Friday, 26 August 2005
Start: Port Augusta
Finish: Woomera
Daily Kilometres: 182
Total Kilometres: 521

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and left around 6:25am.  It was dark, but a fantastic red sunrise over the southern Flinders Ranges followed shortly.  There was very little traffic and the countryside became arid very quickly.  It wasn't as cold as previous mornings and warmed up rapidly.  Although remaining arid, the countryside did vary with saltbush giving way to scrubby trees and back again.  The soil became redder and redder.  Although mostly flat, there were some long gradual undulations which became longer and tougher as the day wore on.  Also, the wind got up around lunchtime and varied from cross to headwind.  I stopped around 9am for a muesli breakfast and then for snacks around noon and 2:30pm.  At the second stop, there were some spectacular views across some salt lakes.  Eventually, very tired, I reached Pimba just before 4pm and decided to ride the extra 6km to Woomera.  Pimba claimed to have a motel, but it wasn't obvious.  Woomera was a very pleasant-looking "company town" with plenty of trees in the midst of the desert.  I checked in to the motel, did some washing and shopping and relaxed.  It had been a very warm and tiring day.  Hopefully, I'll start to feel stronger from now on.  During the day, a car and caravan had slowed to ask me whether I needed anything.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Snowtown to Port Augusta

Day: 002
Date: Thursday, 25 August 2005
Start: Snowtown
Finish: Port Augusta
Daily Kilometres: 180
Total Kilometres: 339

Journal:
I got up at 5:30am and was on the road by 6:15am.  It was very cold and dawn was just breaking.  I made good time during the beautiful sunrise although the wind became a headwind.  After some indecision, I turned into Crystal Brook (it added a few kilometres) to get breakfast about 8:30am after 50km.  It was a pretty little old town and I got some great fresh donuts from the bakery and sat and watched the town start another day.  About 45 minutes after leaving Crystal Brook, I got a puncture and then, while trying to get the tyre back on the rim, managed to break both tyre levers!  Eventually, I managed to get the tyre on using a spanner, but decided I needed to divert into Port Pirie (added about 10km) to the bike shop to get more tubes and tyre levers, which I did.  I then had an early lunch at the Subway before heading for Port Augusta which was 88km away.  The headwind was constant, but I made reasonable time.  I rode to Mambray Creek Roadhouse, with the Flinders Ranges to my right and the gulf to my left.  Unfortunately, the Roadhouse was closed and I missed my planned ice-cream.  I had a snack and then set out on the last 46km to Port Augusta.  Alas, about 30 minutes later, I had another puncture (the tape covering the spoke holes seems inadequate).  When I tried to use the new tubes, I found the valves wouldn't fit through the rim - what a waste of money and very annoying!  I decided I needed to get to the Port Augusta bike shop and gave them a call to see when they closed....5:30pm, it was going to be tight.  Fortunately, the wind and road was kind and I averaged 25kph, reaching the bike shop at 5:15pm.  I then found that the shop was closing for good tomorrow!  He gave ma a couple of 26X2.125 tubes which he reckons will fit....let's hope!  I then stopped at the supermarket and stocked up with a few things before riding to a motel and checking in at 6pm.  It had been a long day - about 180km.  Had pizza in my room for dinner, watched the cricket on TV and went to bed at 9:30pm.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Adelaide to Snowtown

Day: 001
Date: Wednesday, 24 August 2005
Start: Adelaide
Finish: Snowtown
Daily Kilometres: 159
Total Kilometres: 159

Journal:
I got up at 5:30am and set off in the dark at 6:10am with best wishes from Jenny and Heather (my sister and her partner with whom I had been staying in the Adelaide suburbs).  It was also cold and I wore most of my gear.  I first rode into the Adelaide General Post Office (GPO), which wasn't exactly the direction I wanted to go, because I thought I should ride from GPO to GPO.  It probably added about 6km.  I then made good progress north out of town with a slight following tailwind helping me average 23kph.  There was a lot of morning traffic including plenty of trucks, but it wasn't too bad.  After about 38km, I noticed the bike was wobbling a bit and feared a major problem.  I got off, but couldn't see anything wrong so continued on.  However, it was getting worse and I soon realised I had a flat rear tyre!  I made one abortive attempt to patch the very small hole which seemed to have been caused by the spoke hole on the inside of the rim.  With some difficulty, and glad I had brought the pliers, I moved the protective tape.  Unfortunately, after I had put the wheel back on, I found the tyre was still slowly deflating.  I took it off again and this time replaced the tube.  This seemed to fix it, but it had cost me about 75 minutes of stuffing around.  I set off again, a little nervous that there might still be a problem and rode for a couple of hours to get to Two Wells where I had a couple of very fresh donuts for a little bakery and an orange juice in the sun for breakfast.  Prior  to breakfast, I had to keep getting off the road because a house was being transported up the highway.  It was two lanes wide and had a police escort.  I had to get off three times and they were all waving to me by the end.  As I was leaving in the morning, Jenny had told me that you're not supposed to wear underpants with bike shorts!  How ignorant am I?  And now my underpants inside my bike shorts were starting to chafe a bit.  I ploughed on to Port Wakefield at 105km for lunch and found some public toilets where I removed the underpants.  I had a quick pie and pastie for lunch at 12:30pm, watching the traffic go past and sitting in the sun - very pleasant.  I set off again at 1pm and found the going much harder.  The wind had swung around and was now mostly against me and there were more undulations, although the scenery was rural, green and pretty.  There were some reasonable hills.  I got stopped by a couple of Asians seeking directions, but couldn't help.  I stopped for a snack at Lochiel and thought about where I would aim for the night.  It looked like Crystal Brook, although I still had 60km to go and it was already 3pm.  I continued on, but the going was hard and I was getting tired.  I reached Snowtown at 3:50pm and, after a bit of map checking, decided I was better to stop there.  The campground was a dead loss - nothing there - so I tried the hotel where I got a room for $25.  It was a bit run down, but OK.  After a shower I walked around the town on a pleasant evening.  It was old, but obviously losing population.  Many closed stores.  This was where the grisly Snowtown murders occurred, but I saw no reference.  I got some snacks, fixed the tube in my room then had a pub dinner - bangers and mash made with kangaroo and feral goat meat by local hunters.  bed at 9:30pm.