Having enjoyed my trip by mountain bike from Sydney to Melbourne in 2004, I decided to tackle a longer trip in 2005 and the idea of riding from south to north through the centre of Australia had a lot of appeal. I love the vastness and isolation of the Australian outback and this seemed a good opportunity to enjoy both.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Pine Creek to Darwin

Day: 018
Date: Saturday, 10 September 2005
Start: Pine Creek
Finish: Darwin
Daily Kilometres: 233
Total Kilometres: 3058

Journal:
I got up at 4am and left at 4:40am.  There was no more traffic on the road early than usual.  I had thought that being closer to Darwin it would be busier.  There were still plenty of hills but that helped make the scenery more interesting and the humidity made it feel a bit like Georgia in the US where I had spent time.  The countryside was mostly timbered with rocky outcrops and escarpments and more exotic plants and, of course, ant hills.  I stopped at Hayes Creek and had a nice cooked breakfast sitting on the verandah of the old pub.  I then continued on making reasonable time although the winds were from the NW.  At one point I saw a dingo feeding on roadkill.  It then wandered into the bush and watched me pass by.  I reached Adelaide River late morning and decided to have an early lunch of a pie and pastie sitting in the shade next to the roadhouse.  There's definitely a tropical feel to the place and creeks were flowing and surrounded by lush vegetation.  About 80km south of Darwin I met a german who was mid-way through his first day of a bike trip from Darwin to Uluru.  He was finding the going tough but looked fit.  He was worried about snakes.  After an ice-cream at Acacia Stores in mid-afternoon I set out for the last 65km to Darwin.  My spirits were good, but deteriorated on the divided highway into Darwin where the headwinds were strong and the weather warm.  I struggled on and around 5pm reached a motel near the airport where I checked in (it was a bit of a dive).  I then left my bags there and continued riding into the centre of town where, after a bit of looking around, I found the main Post Office about 6pm and took a certifying photograph.  The moment was a bit anti-climactic because it had been a tough late afternoon, but satisfying nevertheless.  I then rode the 8km back out to the motel, stopping at the Shell roadhouse on the way to pick up some dinner.  All they had were sandwiches so my celebratory dinner was a bit underwhelming.  I ate dinner and watched the cricket and then went to bed about 9:30pm.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Mataranka to Pine Creek

Day: 017
Date: Friday, 9 September 2005
Start: Mataranka
Finish: Pine Creek
Daily Kilometres: 196
Total Kilometres: 2825

Journal:
I got up at 4am after a poor night's sleep and set out at 4:40am.  It was warm and there was humidity that I noticed for the first time on the trip.  The stars weren't quite so bright.  Another lovely sunrise but, disappointingly, there was a headwind.  I found out later that the winds were north-westerlies, exactly what I didn't want.  I had been hoping all week for tailwinds on this section where the road direction was mostly WNW.  It was sweaty tough work with a few hills, but more interesting scenery.  There were rocky outcrops and the burnt undergrowththat is commong at the Top End.  I actually saw some feral donkeys in the early light.  After 105km I reached Katherine feeling quite tired.  Maybe the hard riding is catching up with me.  Katherine was much the same as when the family visited two years ago.  Quite busy, provincial town feel.  I bought a couple of toasted sandwiches and OJ and a lime milkshake at a roadhouse, much to the amusement of the cashier.  I hit the road again at 10:30am after walking through town.  I had decided that, in the conditions, Pine Creek would be my target for the day, even though it meant a lot of kilometres tomorrow.  The road became quite hilly and busy but also interesting.  It looked like Kakadu country with lots more rocky outcrops.  Also lots more habitation.  Eventually I reached Pine Creek which is a pretty little town and checked into the hotel/motel which seemed very nice.  I had time for a nap before a very nice pasta dinner at the pub, followed by cheesecake.  Lots of phone calls to Barb as I sorted out an earlier flight back to Sydney.  back in the motel room I watched the Geelong vs Swans finals game and some cricket.  Despite a later than usual night, I decided to leave at the usual time given the 225km tomorrow.  I will also dump my surplus food to reduce weight.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Dunmarra to Mataranka

Day: 016
Date: Thursday, 8 September 2005
Start: Dunmarra
Finish: Mataranka
Daily Kilometres: 212
Total Kilometres: 2629

Journal:
Got up at 4am after a good night's sleep (went to be at 7:30pm!) and on the road at 4:45am.  Another beautiful starlit night followed by a great dawn.  Very pleasant riding.  I reached Daly Waters Roadhouse at 7am and ordered a cooked breakfast which I ate on the verandah.....also very pleasant.  I then continued on at a good pace in rapidly warming conditions.  Mostly lightly forested grazing country with dry grass.  Definitely a more tropical feel.  I made good time to Larrimah where I got a home-made pie and sausage roll and milkshake for lunch.  A very sleepy town on a very hot day.  I then set off for the final 75km in very hot conditions but managed OK with a break at a rest stop mid-way.  I reached Mataranka at 4:15pm and checked into the Mataranka Hotel/Motel.  The hotel looked a bit of a dive, but the room was OK.  I've decided not to try and fix the bike at Katherine and to try and get to Darwin on Saturday night.  I bought a burger and chips from a nearby roadhouse for dinner after deciding against the pub.  I started watching the cricket but, in the end, went to bed about 8:30am.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Renner Springs to Dunmarra

Day: 015
Date: Wednesday, 7 September 2005
Start: Renner Springs
Finish: Dunmarra
Daily Kilometres: 192
Total Kilometres: 2417

Journal:
Got up at 4am after a restless night and was on the road by 4:45am.  Another starlit night and I saw a meteor soon after starting.  Made reasonable progress although there was already an opposing wind.  There weren't as many hills although I felt quite high, presumably on the Barkley Tablelands, and I could see a long way to the east and west.  The country gradually became more forested with lots of grassy areas and looked to be reasonable cattle country.  I think this is the land of the big station.  I reached Elliott at 9:15 am and found a roadhouse where I ordered a cooked breakfast and milkshake.  The town was very hot and dry with a large aboriginal population.  It looked well-kept, but a long way from anywhere, and I wouldn't want to live there.  After an hour I sett off northwards in the baking sun and gusty north wind.  I resolved to drink every 10km and break the 100km into four sections with a break between each.  For my first rest break I stopped at a rest area and soaked my top in water to cool down.  Before breakfast, as I mounted the bike after letting a road train go past, something had gone wrong with the gears.  It looks like I have disengaged/broken the smallest cog on the rear wheel so that the top gear is no longer available.  Otherwise it seems OK so I have to decide whether to try and get it fixed in Katherine, or just keep going.  It wasn't much of a problem without the top gear today, so maybe I'll be OK.  Although it was a long hot hard afternoon, it wasn't as bad as I had anticipated.  The countryside is becoming greener and there are more signs of civilization although towns are still a long way apart.  I was very happy to reach Dunmarra at 4pm and checked in, washed out clothes, and had a shower.  I can probably get to Darwin on Saturday if I have three 200+km days from here.  It's going to stay hot but if the winds are favourable and I don't waste too much time in Katherine, I should be able to make it.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Tennant Creek to Renner Springs

Day: 014
Date: Tuesday, 6 September 2005
Start: Tennant Creek
Finish: Renner Springs
Daily Kilometres: 161
Total Kilometres: 2225

Journal:
I got up at 4am and was on the road by 4:45am.  It was a warm and breezy morning and I struggled to build momentum.  Still suffering from indigestion.  Nevertheless, I made reasonable progress and passed through Three Ways while it was still dark.  There followed another beautiful sunrise.  The country became more arid pastoral in nature and udulating as the road climbed out of one dry riverbed after another.  I stopped at a rest stop after 90km for breakfast and, just as I packed up, another cyclist, Harry, came in from the south.  He said there were three other cyclists on the same stretch of road.  He was a bit eccentric, lathered in sun-cream and wearing a hood, long trousers and sleeves.  He said he was an options trader these days and was riding from Noosa to Perth.  We rode near each other for a couple of hours before taking a break and then, after that, he let me go ahead.  It was turning into another very hot day with winds that were either against me or across.  After another few kilometres I caught Charlie, who was riding a recumbent tricycle.  He was English and travelling at a comfortable pace.  Apparently he and Harry had travelled together at least part of the time.  I continued on making reasonable progress through heat-blasted country with many long straight stretches and a few good climbs.I reached Renner Springs at 1:45pm and met the two Japanese students who were also biking north.  I chatted to them a little bit, had a pie and sausage roll for lunch sitting on the verandah of the Roadhouse, and checked into the motel.  After lunch and a shower and washing out my gear, I had a nap for a little while before going over to the Roadhouse for dinner.  There I sat with Harry and the two Japanese guys for an hour or two while we had dinner.  I left them at 7pm and returned to my room.  I wanted to get another early start and make Dunmarra which was 192km away which means a long day, especially if the winds are bad.  It's supposed to be northerlies and 36°C.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Wycliffe Well to Tennant Creek

Day: 013
Date: Monday, 5 September 2005
Start: Wycliffe Well
Finish: Tennant Creek
Daily Kilometres: 132
Total Kilometres: 2064

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am after a reasonable night's sleep and set out at 6:10am as the sun rose.It was cool but promised to warm rapidly.  Again there was a headwind so progress was just steady.  Around 8am I reached the Devil's Marbles where the family had camped on our round Australia trip.  It was pretty in the early morning light.  As it got hotter and the headwind rose I became less enthusiastic about two big mileage days tomorrow and Wednesday.  North winds were forecast to be strong tomorrow and it was going to be hot all week.  I stopped for breakfast at a rest stop after 45km and then settled into an enervating slog in the wind and heat on long straight stretches into the shimmering distance.  Although it was tough, this was typical weather for this area and I enjoyed seeing at its best.  I decided to revert to my original schedule and just aim for Tennant Creek today.  I made it shortly after 2pm and checked into a motel near the centre of town.  It was baking hot and the town had a run-down feel.  I wouldn't want to be posted to the Westpac Bank here (my father was once a bank manager)!  I bought some supplies at the supermarket and later went around to the take-out and ordered a pizza for dinner which I ate back in my room.  I over-ate and over-drank, though need the fluids, and went to bed at 8pm with indigestion.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Ti Tree to Wycliffe Well

Day: 012
Date: Sunday, 4 September 2005
Start: Ti Tree
Finish: Wycliffe Well
Daily Kilometres: 181
Total Kilometres: 1932

Journal:
I got up at 5am after a good night's sleep and was on the road by 5:40am.  There was just a hint of "down" but a fantastic starry sky.  I was aiming for Barrow Creek Roadhouseat 89km, but immediately encountered a moderate headwind that slowed me down.  It was also pretty warm already.  The country was quite interesting with occasional rocky outcrops, low ranges and escarpments.  The imposing Central Mount Stuart was also visible off to the left.  despite the conditions, I made reasonable progress and got to Barrow Creek Roadhouse around 10am.  It was an "original" with a bar filled with memorabilia, flower-decked shady verandah and a donkey standing in the service station forecourt.  It stood in the same place for the whole 45 minutes I was there.  I ordered some toasted sandwiches and a bottle of drink and sat on the verandah enjoying the peaceful scene.  A couple of aboriginal women were slowly doing some chores and chatting.  Out in the sun it was hot.  I set out in the heat for a rest stop 40km down the road.  The wind became more flukey which allowed a better pace and a more pleasant ride.  There continued to be some hills but also some very long flat straight stretches where the road disappeared into a shimmering distance.  I reached the rest stop at about 12:45pm and shared the only table in the shade with an elderly couple from sydney.  They offered me tea and water and we chatted while they ate their sandwiches and I had a bowl of muesli.  The guy kidded me about their car's A/C as they left.  It was very still and hot.  Typical outback Australia with some cattle sheltering under some of the scrubby trees and everything very dry.  I set out for the last 52km to Wycliffe Well and after about 45 minutes met a cyclist coming the other way.  he was on his way from Darwin to Melbourne and had done some long rides in the past - Melbourne>Cape York and Round Australia.  we chatted for about 20 minutes before continuing on.  I reached Wycliffe Well around 4pm.  It was a very well-kept campground/motel and I got a cabin and watched the end of the footy before showering and washing out my clothes.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Alice Springs to Ti Tree

Day: 011
Date: Saturday, 3 September 2005
Start: Alice Springs
Finish: Ti Tree
Daily Kilometres: 194
Total Kilometres: 1751

Journal:
Got up at 4am after a restless night (too much caffeine?).  I left about 4:45am with what seemed to be a very heavy load.  I guess I had seven litres of fluids plus more food than I really need.  Maybe I'll ditch some later.  In the dark it was hard to tell, but the road seemed to climb out of Alice Springs and the going was slow and hard.  There was also a bit of a headwind.....again!  Eventually, as it got lighter, the road seemed to flatten out and the going was better.  I aimed for a rest stop, which was 95km from Alice Springs, for breakfast and got there around 9am, which wasn't bad given the weight on the bike, the climb out of Alice Springs, and the increasing wind.  It was a very nice morning, but rapidly getting warmer.  There was more vegetation, mostly a cross between scrub and trees and there were frequent cattle stations and the occasional road to an aboriginal settlement.  The road had some undulating sections passing through low ranges but was mostly long straight sections with low crests.  Despite the increasing wind I made reasonable time and arrived at the Aileron Roadhouse just before 12pm.  I had lost radio reception so knew I wouldn't be able to listen to the Geelong vs Melbourne football game which I thought started soon after 12:30pm.  I had pretty much decided to have lunch at the Roadhouse, take a break from the wind, and watchthe game on TV while having a few Cokes.  However, it turned out that the game started later than anticipated so I decided to ride the last 60km to Ti-Tree where I planned to spend the night despite the very warm sunny conditions and the headwind.  Again, I made reasonable time (got a text update from Aaron on the footy score en route) despite a few breaks and reached the motel at around 4:15pm and caugh the last 10 minutes of the game which Geelong won comfortably.  I washed out my very sweaty gear, had a shower, and watched the first part of the Wallabies vs All Blacks rugby game before heading to the Roadhouse for an early dinner where I watched the last half.  After dinner, I watched the first half of the St Kilda vs Adelaide match before going to bed at 8:30pm.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Alice Springs

Day: 010
Date: Friday, 2 September 2005
Start: Alice Springs (day off)
Finish: Alice Springs
Daily Kilometres: 0
Total Kilometres: 1557

Journal:
I slept in until 8:30am and then, after a bit of house-keeping, spent about 90 minutes on the internet in the motel office catching up on some email and sending a broadcast email to people interested in the trip.  I then walked into town on a very warm and sunny day (with a north wind blowing......again!).  After wandering around a bit I got some lunch in a food court and then did my food shopping at Woolworths.  Then, with a backpack full of groceries, etc., I went to the cinema and saw "Red Eye".  After that I had a milkshake and a read before slowly wandering back to the motel, passing preparations for the Alice Springs Festival Parade, picked up some KFC and had an early dinner.  Went to bed around 8pm.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Erldunda to Alica Springs

Day: 009
Date: Thursday, 1 September 2005
Start: Erldunda
Finish: Alica Springs
Daily Kilometres: 199
Total Kilometres: 1557

Journal:
I got up at 4am feeling quite tired and toyed with the idea of sleeping for another hour but decided I needed to get going.  As I set off I realised I already had a headwind plus it was quite cold.  I wasn't as enthusiastic as yesterday morning, probably because of fatigue and the headwind, although it was still a stunning night sky and beautiful dawn.  It was turning into "Red Centre" country with rocky outcrops and distant ranges plus sandy dry creek beds and gnarled white gums.  Very pretty.  I spotted quite a few camels at dawn and despite the headwind made reasonable time.  I didn't want to stop until the sun was well up because it was too cold.  I eventually stopped around 8am for some muesli in a pretty rest stop by a dry river bed.  There was a guy there and a big black, but docile, dog.  I chatted to the guy and he told me it wasn't his dog.  The dog was friendly and the guy, who was on his way to a new job at Kakadu, was reluctant to leave it.  Nobody seemed to own it.  He said he would call in at Stuarts Well and tell him about it.  Later that morning I heard a story on the ABC about the dog which had apparently been left there six weeks ago and couldn't be enticed to leave.  I did notice it pricked its ears up every time a car came along.  Apparently a nearby station owner is feeding it and hoping it will eventually go home with them.  [There was a story about the dog in the Alice Springs newspaper and a copy of it can be seen here.]  After breakfast I laboured on to Stuarts Well Roadhouse reaching there at 10:30am and, deciding to have an early lunch, got a pie and pastie, and sat on a bench in the sun watching the world go by.  A couple from Newcastle began chatting to me and, it turned out, had friends at McMasters Beach (near home).  With 90km to go, I set off on what had become a very warm day with plenty of long gradual uphills and no ability to enjoy the downhills because of the wind.  It was a struggle and I was feeling very tired but ploughed on.  With about 40km I got a text from Barb telling me about her cracked rib and pleurisy.  I tried to call but couldn't get through.  I met a cyclist going the other way who was on his first day.  i reached the motel at 5pm, very tired, and had a quick shower, did some washing and bought some supplies.  Pizza delivered for dinner.  Looking forward to a day off.