Having enjoyed my trip by mountain bike from Sydney to Melbourne in 2004, I decided to tackle a longer trip in 2005 and the idea of riding from south to north through the centre of Australia had a lot of appeal. I love the vastness and isolation of the Australian outback and this seemed a good opportunity to enjoy both.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Alice Springs to Ti Tree

Day: 011
Date: Saturday, 3 September 2005
Start: Alice Springs
Finish: Ti Tree
Daily Kilometres: 194
Total Kilometres: 1751

Journal:
Got up at 4am after a restless night (too much caffeine?).  I left about 4:45am with what seemed to be a very heavy load.  I guess I had seven litres of fluids plus more food than I really need.  Maybe I'll ditch some later.  In the dark it was hard to tell, but the road seemed to climb out of Alice Springs and the going was slow and hard.  There was also a bit of a headwind.....again!  Eventually, as it got lighter, the road seemed to flatten out and the going was better.  I aimed for a rest stop, which was 95km from Alice Springs, for breakfast and got there around 9am, which wasn't bad given the weight on the bike, the climb out of Alice Springs, and the increasing wind.  It was a very nice morning, but rapidly getting warmer.  There was more vegetation, mostly a cross between scrub and trees and there were frequent cattle stations and the occasional road to an aboriginal settlement.  The road had some undulating sections passing through low ranges but was mostly long straight sections with low crests.  Despite the increasing wind I made reasonable time and arrived at the Aileron Roadhouse just before 12pm.  I had lost radio reception so knew I wouldn't be able to listen to the Geelong vs Melbourne football game which I thought started soon after 12:30pm.  I had pretty much decided to have lunch at the Roadhouse, take a break from the wind, and watchthe game on TV while having a few Cokes.  However, it turned out that the game started later than anticipated so I decided to ride the last 60km to Ti-Tree where I planned to spend the night despite the very warm sunny conditions and the headwind.  Again, I made reasonable time (got a text update from Aaron on the footy score en route) despite a few breaks and reached the motel at around 4:15pm and caugh the last 10 minutes of the game which Geelong won comfortably.  I washed out my very sweaty gear, had a shower, and watched the first part of the Wallabies vs All Blacks rugby game before heading to the Roadhouse for an early dinner where I watched the last half.  After dinner, I watched the first half of the St Kilda vs Adelaide match before going to bed at 8:30pm.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Alice Springs

Day: 010
Date: Friday, 2 September 2005
Start: Alice Springs (day off)
Finish: Alice Springs
Daily Kilometres: 0
Total Kilometres: 1557

Journal:
I slept in until 8:30am and then, after a bit of house-keeping, spent about 90 minutes on the internet in the motel office catching up on some email and sending a broadcast email to people interested in the trip.  I then walked into town on a very warm and sunny day (with a north wind blowing......again!).  After wandering around a bit I got some lunch in a food court and then did my food shopping at Woolworths.  Then, with a backpack full of groceries, etc., I went to the cinema and saw "Red Eye".  After that I had a milkshake and a read before slowly wandering back to the motel, passing preparations for the Alice Springs Festival Parade, picked up some KFC and had an early dinner.  Went to bed around 8pm.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Erldunda to Alica Springs

Day: 009
Date: Thursday, 1 September 2005
Start: Erldunda
Finish: Alica Springs
Daily Kilometres: 199
Total Kilometres: 1557

Journal:
I got up at 4am feeling quite tired and toyed with the idea of sleeping for another hour but decided I needed to get going.  As I set off I realised I already had a headwind plus it was quite cold.  I wasn't as enthusiastic as yesterday morning, probably because of fatigue and the headwind, although it was still a stunning night sky and beautiful dawn.  It was turning into "Red Centre" country with rocky outcrops and distant ranges plus sandy dry creek beds and gnarled white gums.  Very pretty.  I spotted quite a few camels at dawn and despite the headwind made reasonable time.  I didn't want to stop until the sun was well up because it was too cold.  I eventually stopped around 8am for some muesli in a pretty rest stop by a dry river bed.  There was a guy there and a big black, but docile, dog.  I chatted to the guy and he told me it wasn't his dog.  The dog was friendly and the guy, who was on his way to a new job at Kakadu, was reluctant to leave it.  Nobody seemed to own it.  He said he would call in at Stuarts Well and tell him about it.  Later that morning I heard a story on the ABC about the dog which had apparently been left there six weeks ago and couldn't be enticed to leave.  I did notice it pricked its ears up every time a car came along.  Apparently a nearby station owner is feeding it and hoping it will eventually go home with them.  [There was a story about the dog in the Alice Springs newspaper and a copy of it can be seen here.]  After breakfast I laboured on to Stuarts Well Roadhouse reaching there at 10:30am and, deciding to have an early lunch, got a pie and pastie, and sat on a bench in the sun watching the world go by.  A couple from Newcastle began chatting to me and, it turned out, had friends at McMasters Beach (near home).  With 90km to go, I set off on what had become a very warm day with plenty of long gradual uphills and no ability to enjoy the downhills because of the wind.  It was a struggle and I was feeling very tired but ploughed on.  With about 40km I got a text from Barb telling me about her cracked rib and pleurisy.  I tried to call but couldn't get through.  I met a cyclist going the other way who was on his first day.  i reached the motel at 5pm, very tired, and had a quick shower, did some washing and bought some supplies.  Pizza delivered for dinner.  Looking forward to a day off.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Marla to Erldunda

Day: 008
Date: Wednesday, 31 August 2005
Start: Marla
Finish: Erldunda
Daily Kilometres: 253
Total Kilometres: 1385

Journal:
I was woken several times during the night by the wind blowing outside and began to doubt the wisdom of my planned early start.  When the alarm went at 3am I first walked around outside to try and judge which was the wind was blowing.  It was definitely cooler and the wind seemed to be coming from the south.  I packed up and left about 3:45am.  The wind was either absent or from behind and I was able to ride in top gear for hours.  It was a superb night for rising.  Millions of stars.  Deadly quiet.  I found a radio station (Port Pirie) playing the oldies and I sang along.  It was cold, but not unbearable.  There were two trucks in the first three hours and no other traffic.  After a couple of hours, a light to the east turned out to be a quarter moon rising which added to the magic.  There followed a great clear-sky sunrise.  I stopped for breakfast in a nice lay-by - there were now gum trees in the creek beds - although it was a bit cool.  I made excellent time and continued on to the Northern Territory border arriving, along with lots of tour buses, about 11:30am.  From there it was a quick 20km to Kulgera where I stopped for lunch - toasted egg and bacon sandwiches - and watched the world go by while sitting in the lovely sun.  There were trucks from the Alice Springs exhibition, long-distance buses, backpackers buses, families, local aborigines, etc.  I left about 1:30pm for the last 75km to Erldunda.  Shortly after leaving I met a cyclist heading south.  He'd done 7,000km from Brisbane to the Cape and across the top and down.  He seemeda similar age to me and planned to be back in Brisbane by Christmas.  I continued on with my right knee gradually becoming more painful which was a bit worrying.  A flukey headwind had also blown up which was a bit annoying.  I figure I've had my share of headwinds.  Nevertheless, I still made reasonable time and reached Erldunda at 5:15pm and got a room.  Had a nice pub dinner (three courses) in their tavern and returned to my room.  It's 199km to Alice Springs so I'll go for a reasonably early start so that I get there by mid-afternoon.  My knee is looking forward to a day off.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Rest Stop to Marla

Day: 007
Date: Tuesday. 30 August 2005
Start: Rest Stop (42km south of Cadney Park)
Finish: Marla
Daily Kilometres: 123
Total Kilometres: 1132

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and was on the road by 6am with dawn just beginning to show.  It was a beautiful sunrise although a light headwind/crosswind breeze made riding a struggle all of the time.  The counrtyside was mostly scrubby with rolling hills.  Unfortunately, the headwind always prevented me enjoying the downhills, although it wasn't as strong as yesterday.  I reached Cadney Park Roadhouse at 8:15am and enjoyed sausage, eggs and bacon plus a lime milkshake and hot chocolate for breakfast.  I refilled water bottles and left about 9:20am.  The wind was beginning to build in strength and I was despairing of it swinging around to the South-East as hoped.  I tried to maintain a good pace but was getting buffeted from the front and side.  There were lots of unusual trucks heading south along the highway following the truck exhibition in Alice Springs over the weekend.  I got plenty of waves.  As I neared Marla, my target for the day, the winds got stronger and stronger.  At Marla it was blowing a gale and a dust storm raged.  I got there soon after 2pm and checked into a roomy room.  I had a relaxing afternoon, including a short nap and some washing, and had an early dinner - a big chicken lasagne which was very tasty.  I've decided to have an early start tomorrow to see if I'm up to making Erldunda which is 254km away.  the weather conditions will need to be favourable and I need to be physically up to it.  It's hard to tell whether the two tough days I've had are because I'm still tired from the last 250+km or just because of the wind.  Tomorrow may tell.  Marla is like an island in the middle of a desert ocean.  The campground is very full and the restaurant/bar buzzing yet, all around, is scrubby plains as far as the eye can see.  It was still quite windy tonight when I had dinner.  If it's too tough tomorrow, I will stop for the night at Kulgera.  I would, however, like to get to Alice Springs on Thursday night if possible so that I can have a complete day off on Friday.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Coober Pedy to Rest Stop

Day: 006
Date: Monday, 29 August 2005
Start: Coober Pedy
Finish: Rest Stop (42km south of Cadney Park)
Daily Kilometres: 110
Total Kilometres: 1009

Journal:
I got up at 6:30am and wandered over to the service station diner for eggs and bacon before leaving town around 8am - a leisurely start.  It started out as a beautiful day but a strong northerly wind soon sprang up and cycling became a real chore.  At times the wind was so strong I could barely make forward progress and my average speed was probably little more than 10kph.  I struggled on to a rest area at 78km, reaching it around 1:30pm, completely exhausted.  The wind seemed to be getting even stronger and I decided I would stop for a couple of hours and hope it subsided.  Otherwise, I would camp somewhere this side of Cadney Park and just ride to Marla tomorrow.  Even if I pressed on to Candey today, it would be after dark before I got there.  While stopped, an older couple, who had been at the big truck show in Alice Springs, stopped for a while and offered me a lukewarm pie (and a beer) which I accepted (not the beer!).  I was also very thirsty and quickly going through my own drinks though I think I have enough to camp out if necessary.  I waited until 5:30pm and then decided to start riding again in the hope the wind would die down.  It did by 6pm and I quite enjoyed riding along as the sun set in relatively calm conditions.  Saw a big red roo cross the road in front of me.  I reached a rest stop 42km south of Cadney Park (which had been my original goal) just as it got dark and found several camping groups were already there and the choice spots gone.  I found a spot where I couldn't get run over, quickly spread out my swag and had some muesli and M&Ms for dinner and was in bed, unwashed, by 8pm.  It was a fantastic night for sleeping under the stars.  A few wispy clouds but a brilliant Milky Way and, later, a quarter moon.  It was light enough for me to pack up without a light in the dark when I got up the following morning at 5:30am.  Although I tossed and turned a fair bit, I slept most of the 9.5 hours I was in the sack.

Adelaide to Darwin MTB - Glendambo to Coober Pedy

Day: 005
Date: Sunday, 28 August 2005
Start: Glendambo
Finish: Coober Pedy
Daily Kilometres: 254
Total Kilometres: 899

Journal:
I got up at 2:30am and left soon after 3:00am.  Unfortunately it was mostly cloudy so I didn't get the starlit night I had hoped for, but the riding was easy and I felt I was making good time.  at one point I nearly hit a sheep which crossed the road just in front of me, but otherwise I enjoyed the experience.  When it got light enough to read my trip computer, I was devastated to read that I had only covered about 15km, but I soon worked out that it had stopped working.  Around breakfast time I started to feel quite tired but had made good distance.  As the day wore on the kilometres clicked over.  The country was generally saltbush or scrubby and later on began to be increasingly undulating.  At about 100km I stopped at a rest stop for lunch and thereafter the headwind became stronger making the last part a real grind.  I was feeling exhausted and was taking a break every 10km.  With 40km to go I had afternoon tea at a rest stop and met a motorcyclist from Coober Pedy who was out for a Sunday drive.  He worked in a restaurant in Coober Pedy and said I might go there for dinner.  As the sun set, the wind dropped and I eventually made it to Coober Pedy at 6:30pm.  I checked into a budget motel, had a quick shower, ordered take-out from the adjacent Chinese restaurant, got some cash from the ATM and picked up some supplies from the nearby service station before collecting the Chinese food and eating it in my room watching the cricket.  I was very tired and, despite feeling very bloated, went to bed soon after 9pm and was quickly asleep.  Coober Pedy is still a dump and you could see and hear drunken locals all over the place.  I lost the crown off one of my teeth while having some snakes before dinner.